Pearlescent Effect in Cosmetics: How to Maintain Shine – Compatibility and Stability

Pearlescent concentrates impart an attractive visual effect to foaming cosmetic products. However, to ensure predictable results, it's important to consider their interactions with other components. Let's examine the key points!

1. Compatibility with dyes.

Pearlescent concentrates demonstrate excellent compatibility with dyes in any form—dry or liquid.
For foaming products with pearlescent iridescence, water-soluble dyes are recommended.
Each formulation must be tested for stability in a heating cabinet.

Key advantages of the solution:

• Color freedom—the ability to create any color combination: from delicate pastels to deep, saturated shades.
• Color stability—the original shade is maintained throughout the product's shelf life.
• Textural uniformity—no separation or streaking.

2. Interaction with fragrances

When working with pearlescent concentrates, it's important to consider that some perfumes and essential oils can destabilize the system. To ensure product stability, it is necessary to:

• select the fragrance individually for each formulation;
• carefully determine the optimal dosage;
• conduct compatibility testing.

With the correct selection of fragrance and its percentage, a product containing pearlescent concentrate can remain stable throughout its entire shelf life.
The key advantage of this approach is a uniform texture without separation or streaking.

3. Shade Change Over Time

Why does this happen?

• Some formulation components (fragrances, preservatives, oils) can oxidize over time and impart a tint to the product;
• Dyes can migrate within the pearlescent layer if stored or dyes are improperly selected;
• Phase separation may occur due to component incompatibility.

How can this be prevented?

• Select components with compatibility in mind;
• Test formulations for stability.

4. Stability Tests

Before launching the product, conduct tests for:

1. Thermal stability (holding in an oven at +40°C for 2-6 months);
2. Freeze/thaw stability (holding at -20°C for 1-7 days followed by thawing, several consecutive cycles of 1 to 3 are possible);
3. Lightfastness (UV lamp irradiation, storage in sunlight);
4. Long-term test (storage at 25°C for 12-24 months).

To maintain the vibrant and stable nacre:

• Control the pH of the environment (optimally 5.0–8.0);
• Avoid aggressive solvents;
• Conduct preliminary tests on laboratory samples;
• Avoid overheating the finished product to temperatures above 40°C.

Need help selecting EVAPEARL® pearlescent concentrates from our range to suit your formulation? Our specialists are happy to advise you and help you select compatible components!